Julie Brøgger

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Julie Brøgger, 27. The Danish Design School, MA Fashion Graduate 2009.

– specialism: Fashion Womenswear.

 

Design Background:

Since childhood I have taken various drawing courses, but it wasn’t until I took an intensive 5 months drawing course at Lis Nogel Tegneskole, Copenhagen, that I realized that I wanted an education that would able me to work in a creative industry. The drawing course was actually a bit boring as it consisted of long days of drawing statues, which probably didn’t suit my temperament very well. The fast paced world of fashion showed to be a more suitable combination of using my drawing and creative skills with a quick paced process.

When I started at The Danish Design School I in many ways found direction. As part of my education I went to London for a year (at my 4th year), where I took courses at University of the Arts as well as doing an internship with Preen. Furthermore I worked for J.W. Anderson as assistant designer on two collections, doing jewelry and menswear.

 

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Project title:

This Lady was Once a Punk

 

Inspiration: 

The 1989 Tatler magazine cover of Vivienne Westwood imitating Margaret Thatcher and the headline ”This Woman was once a Punk” was the first inspiration for the theme of my collection. The cover pins the differences of two social groups in society, which inspired me to do a project with polar dynamics.

 

The concept of my MA graduate collection is to create a new visual context with the references of the rough and rebellious ’Punk’ and the feminine and pristine ’Lady’. The combination of these two opposites has been the platform for a dress collection that feeds off the conflicts between the two in use of materials, shape and style.

 

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How is your process when you design?

I start by creating a research base from which I withdraw inspiration, ideas and mood. That base can consist of material from books, magazines, visits to museum and so on.  I usually merge it all into collages with or without a body as backdrop. I do a lot of fabric manipulation samples which I combine with work on mannequin, and then translate it to pattern cutting. Sketching and collages are my main tools to further develop concept and ideas.

 

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What do you find most difficult about the design process?

It is always difficult to get the result exactly how you want it when you are working alone, being the one to do all steps of the production. Having a team certainly makes it easier to execute ideas and designs in the way you want it.

 

Describe your collection with three words?

Punked up lady

 

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What techniques did you use: 

In this collection I have a lot of knitwear and fabric manipulation. The knitwear is both hand knitted and machine knitted, and the manipulated afterwards.

 

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I also worked a lot with fur, cutting it into strops and then replacing it.

 

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I worked with Vanners Silk Weavers to create this unique jacquard woven silk pattern, which is in inspired by 1950s prints but added a punk feel and a contemporary reference.

 

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Do you have a technical or conceptual approach to designing?

I would say both. But it depends on what inspires me at the moment. I don’t see fashion as concept or technique. One would be boring without the other in my opinion.

 

Which garment was most difficult to make? 

The short fur dress in black Lycra and nude fox fur was difficult to make. I wanted to do a technique that would make it possible for me to use as little fur as possible but still keeping the luxurious volume effect of fur. Furthermore I wanted to control the direction of the hairs in order to create twirls in the fur. I did this by cutting the fur in strips and sewing them onto the dress in a grading pattern, creating the dramatic illusion of twirls and volume.

 

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Which garment took the longest to make?

The garment that took the longest to make was definitely the big mohair coat. I had done a small sample when I first started the project without really realizing how long it would take to do an entire coat. I started by doing tube whenever I had a bit of spare time, but I quickly realized that I could never make on my own. I then had 3 people working on it, doing the mohair tubes for 2 months. But it was worth it! I love the result which references both the luxurious fur as well as the punk feel of the mohair knit.

 

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Which garment is your favorite?

Uh, it is always difficult to pick a favorite among your babies…. But one of my favorites is the long black dress with a full-length zipper in the front and knitted cobber layer. It is elegant but edgy and rough at the same time.

 

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How long did you work on this project?

I worked on this project full time+ for 6 months, but collections always start earlier in my head.

 

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What designers inspire you?

Nicolas Ghesquière and Alber Elbaz both have an inspiring way of creating clothes that women desire to wear but still pushing fashion forward. And Miuccia Prada has a freaky way of always predicting the future. Of the great but dead ones, Elsa Schiaparelli and Madame Grès are big inspirations.

 

Which designer would you like to work for in the future?

All of the above and many more who push fashion further and dare to make collections that make a statement.

 

What advice would you give new students?

Work hard and give your all!

 

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Which fellow students would you like to highlight? 

Look out for Nanna Isbrandt’s white poetic understated designs at Copenhagen Fashion Week that will blow you away.

Textile designer Jacob Peter Bille is definitely one to watch as well with his inspiring woven pieces that have me exited about seeing more from his hands (and feet).

 

Why do you want to be a designer?

Because it excites me every day! Designing gets my blood pumping, my heart racing, and my soul happy!

 

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What are your plans for the future? 

My immediate plans are all about Copenhagen Fashion Week. We have a big graduate show at City Hall and I am participating in the Designer’s Nest competition.

 

Will you be selling your collection? 

I have been asked to do some one off dresses, but I am waiting to see the reaction from press and buyers during fashion week before I decide to go further with this collection.

 

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Were can we find more information on you? 

Online portfolio: www.juliebrogger.blogspot.com

 

Contact info: 

Tel: +45 2714 2887

Email: juliebrogger@gmail.com

Website: www.juliebrogger.blogspot.com

 

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Comments
One Response to “Julie Brøgger”
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