Hollie Maloney

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Hollie Maloney, 23. University of Brighton, BA (Hons.) Fashion Textile Graduate 2009.

– specialism: Knitwear.

 

Design Background:

A year art foundation at Chelsea College of art and design. One year work experience as part of my degree, 3 months at Envy Designs, 3 months at Cardigan, 3 months at Whistles, 3 months at DKNY in New York.

 

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Inspiration:

My final collection was based on eco-architecture and the accidental colour that came from photographing different structure. 

 

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Where do you get inspiration from in general?

Architecture is my main inspiration, I always carry a camera and am inspired by unusual colour and texture combinations in the world around me.

 

How is your process when you design?

I work in sketchbooks, one for visual inspiration, one for colour, and one for garment shape and fashion ideas. My work tends to develop through sampling, I work out my garment shapes and apply my knitted samples to them, I work in Photoshop to try different colour proportions and combinations to produce fashion illustrations.

 

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What do you find most difficult about the design process?

Being able to whittle so many initial ideas down into a final collection, I want to use a bit of everything and it’s not always possible.

 

What are your strengths?

I’m really driven by colour and am confident at using it in unusual ways. I have a good eye for trends but am also strong on the technical side.

 

What are your weaknesses?

Making decisions, I often take a project in one direction then wonder if I should have done something completely different.

 

What techniques did you use: 

I worked on different gauge knitting machines (see below) using the following techniques by hand: Intarsia, Cabling, stitch transfer, double feeder knitting, inlay, weaving.

 

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Which machines did you use to create your collection?

Domestic 3gg, dubied 8gg, dubied 10gg

 

Which technique was the most difficult? 

Double feeder knitting: It isn’t something the machine naturally wants to do and it took a lot of practice to perfect so that the knitting didn’t fall off the machine

 

Do you have a technical or conceptual approach to designing?

A bit of both, I initially work from a concept, but machinery has it’s limitations so things have to be adjusted so that they actually work which may give an overall different effect than what was originally intended.

 

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Which garment was most difficult to make?  

The womens piece with the batwing style sleeve, the machine didn’t like knitting big areas of single bed for the shapes in the middle and it took a few attempts to get it right

 

Which garment took the longest to make?

The first one I made which is the womens fine gauge dress in the maroon and teal colour way, I was trying a lot of things out and it was the first time I had used the double feeder technique on such a large-scale.

 

Which garment is your favorite?

The womens maroon and teal fine gauge dress, It was a huge learning curve and I love that colour way in the fine gauge.

 

What technique is your favorite?

The double feeder technique, It took a long time to perfect but I think it looks effective, I also like the cable I did on the jpin of the intarsia on the two chunkier pieces.

 

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How long did you work on this project?

From initial research through to final photoshoot etc 9 months

 

What made you pursue Knitwear?

I enjoy working with an end fashion product in mind, with knit you can shape and produce the garment as you make it, I enjoy working 3d.

 

What designers inspire you?

I love classic British brands such as Paul Smith, Pringle and Burberry but my favourite designers at the moment  have to be Marni and Dries van Noten.

 

Which designer would you like to work for in the future?

Any of the above.

 

Why did you choose Brighton University?

I chose Brighton because of it’s reputation, location and the year working in industry which has been invaluable since graduating.

 

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What did you think of the education?

Really great, I had a very encouraging, inspiring tutor the whole way through which really helped.

 

During your education, which project has been your favorite?

My final collection, it’s the only project I’ve ever had the time to get really involved with it and do what ever I wanted.

 

Have you ever been nominated or won a design competition?  

Since graduating I have been selected from over 300 applicants for ‘Texprint 2009’ as one of the final 24 and gone on to win the ‘knit’ prize. This has given me a wealth of experience including showing at exhibitions and trade fairs in London, Paris and Hong Kong attracting the attention of companies such as Aquascutum, Oscar de le Renta, Lyle and Scott, Paul Costelloe and Jaeger.

 

What are your plans for the future?

To get a knitwear design job within a mid to high-end fashion company.

 

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Will you continue to MA?

I have no plans to at the moment.

 

Will you be selling your BA collection?

I would be happy to sell my collection if there was any serious interest, I couldn’t remake it as I don’t have the right machinery.

 

Were can we find more information on you?

University of Brighton website, WGSN, Drapers website, Vogue.com, Texprint website.

 

Contact info:

holliemaloney@hotmail.co.uk,
+447946329972

website coming soon

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