Disa Treutiger, 24. Beckmans College of Fashion, 2. year knitwear project 2009.
– specialism: Fashion
I started when I was 14 years old making clothes for a fashion show to raise money for my class travelling funds, I started calling up Swedish designers that I admire and asked if I could be an intern during my school holidays and I found fashion as a way to express myself.
I have read a one-year pre-education in design, sewing and pattern making. After that I studied economics for two years and went to Beckmans evening course for one year. I was then accepted to my current education.
Last summer I worked at H&M with childrens clothes and this summer I have been an intern at Burfitt in Paris.
What was the most valuable you learned before starting at your education?
Believe in yourself. Do not make compromises.
To be someone.
When I entered Beckmans I was confronted with the question ”who are you?” at an early stage. Trying to answer that question through different methods I have been confronted with my origin and my heritage and integrated that in to my design process. The 17th century philosopher John Locke described the human mind as a “blank slate”, tabula rasa, and that all human qualities will be acquired during the course of a lifetime. Therefore you never get finished, the answer will always be for the moment and will never be static. My collection is my answer, if just for a moment, on the question, Who are you?
Where do you get your inspiration from?
Right now I am especially inspired with how the body reacts on feelings. How the face crumples when you cry, how your chest wants to explode when you are in love. I enjoy trying to explain these abstract feelings in to clothes even though its complicated. I tried to make shoes last year looking like you are so happy that you float in the air.
How is your process when you design?
It’s all in my head. I go and think for ages. I often bury myself in books and in films and its important for me to have a really strong idea before start designing.
What are your strenghts?
My clothes often have a strong story and everything is very well thought of.
What are your weaknesses?
I think its boring to sew.
Describe your collection with three words?
Personal, subconscious and fuzzy.
What techniques did you use:
Since the whole project was based on knitting and different knitting techniques almost the whole collection is handknitted.
Which technique was the most difficult?
Making the “holes” in the jeans took me almost a week and was really hard.
Do you have a technical or conceptual approach to designing?
Which garment is your favorite?
The fuzzy pink sweater with seethrough back.
What technique is your favorite?
I really like knits and by learning the technique and using advanced knitting machines opened up a whole new perspective on how to use knitwear for me.
How long did you work on this project?
Is there something you regret not doing in your collection?
I wish I would have taken the concept a little bit further. You always get a little scared, especially when showing at Stockholm fashion week. But that is done now, so I’m not scared anymore.
What designers inspire you?
They who dare to challenge like Vivianne westwood, Gareth Pugh and Alexander McQueen.
Which designer would you like to work for in the future?
The above mentioned.
Why did you choose Beckmans?
Beckmans College of design have a really good reputation in Sweden, and almost all big designers in Sweden have a diploma from Beckmans. It really hard to be accepted and they have a high standard of education.
What did you think of the education?
I’m not finished yet but the last two-year have been amazing, a lot is happening on beckmans, they have a lot more teachers from abroad and a lot more is focused on the ideas and analysis of fashion.
During your education, which project has been your favorite?
The project we are working on now which is going to be exhibited in Stockholm fashion week in February is named “In a perfect world…” where we have analyzed the fashion system trying to make a change in some way. My project was based on the lack of humanity in the fashionindustry. How do we increase the status of being kind in such a backstabbing world? This would be the core-problem and later my collection was about how we see the body in the fashion indstry and trying to make something as “vulgar” as bodyfat as something beautiful and flattering.
Which techniques did you use?
I have made a whole woven collection with as much as possible made in ecofriendly materials.
What advice would you give new students?
Don’t let critique weigh you down, let it bring you further.
Which fellow students would you like to highlight?
I think you ought to look at all my fellow classmates. We have a really cool class were everyone have really differentiating and fascinating ideas. www.beckmans.se/m10
Why do you want to be a designer?
That is how I express myself.
Have you ever been nominated or won a design competition?
This summer I won an intern design competition at Burfitt and my design was taken to production.
With one word, what is your best quality?
What are your plans for the future?
My plan is to fulfill my dreams, maybe in London.
Were can we find more information on you?
College website: www.beckmans.se/disa-treutiger
Interview for dazed and confused: http://www.dazeddigital.com/view/Default.aspx?Category=19&ArticleID=2368&PageNum=2